Smoked Duck Cooking Class in Ubud

Balinese massage...on a duck.

Balinese massage…on a duck.

The beautiful lobby of Honeymoon Guesthouse 2, where we took our cooking class.

The beautiful lobby of Honeymoon Guesthouse 2, where we took our cooking class.

Last week in Ubud, Bali we decided to take a cooking class at Casa Luna, one of the best restaurants in Ubud. The owner, Janet DeNeefe, has been in Bali for over 25 years and wrote a gorgeous cookbook called ‘Bali: The Food of My Island Home,’ which sadly didn’t fit our budget or our backpacks. They have the most delightful bakery in town and are well known for running a fantastic cooking school. You know we can’t resist a good cooking class.

A traditional rice steamer.

A traditional rice steamer.

The Sunday Twilight Smoked Duck course didn’t disappoint. This style of smoked duck, known as Bebek Betutu in Balinese, is a very traditional dish prepared for ceremonies and important events. We have sampled this dish a handful of times at various restaurants around town and were dying to learn how it’s made.

Some of the spices used in Balinese cooking.

Some of the spices used in Balinese cooking, it gets a bit complicated.

The course started off with a thorough introduction to the numerous spices that make Balinese food so unique. There are 3 different types of ginger that are integral to Balinese cuisine, one of which I had never even heard of before. Does anyone know what the heck “White tumeric” is?  Neither do we, but the moment we smelled it, a light went off in both of our heads; Kencur, as the Balinese call it, is the common thread in all Balinese Food. It smells earthy and somewhere between mild ginger and tumeric. Let’s hope we can find it at home.

Our duck, waiting to be smothered with spices and wrapped up.

Our duck, waiting to be smothered with spices.

We ground up these spices with a mortar and pestle. My lovely mother hauled home a miniature version for our kitchen. :)

We ground up these spices with a mortar and pestle. My lovely mother hauled home a miniature version for our kitchen. 🙂

It eventually became clear that to recreate this dish at home would require a few creative substitutions. However, massaging the little duck carcass with the spices, wrapping it up in a Betel tree bark, and smoking it under a burning pile of rice husks made for a highly entertaining cooking class. The photos are not exactly ideal, given the class began at Sunset – but our trusty iPhones delivered some decent low-light shots.

All ready to be wrapped up and smoked overnight.

All ready to be wrapped up and smoked overnight.

The duck, all wrapped up, is covered with a clay pot and buried beneath rice husks.

The package is covered with a clay pot and buried beneath rice husks.

The rice husks are lit with kerosene doused coconut shells. Once lit, the rice husks burn all night.

The fire is started with kerosene doused coconut shells. Once lit, the rice husks burn all night.

Singapore, a city of food

Of course we couldn’t visit Singapore and not write about the food! Eliza graciously held off to give me a chance for a guest post.

Food was definitely the impetus for our stopover, which turned out to be a blessing as it was pretty much the only activity we could afford. Singapore is known for its shopping and expensive restaurants but in our book, it’s real claim to fame is hawker centers: open air complexes lined with rows of food stalls, packed with locals grabbing lunch and tourists sampling the local fare. Singaporeans take their food seriously, and it’s not uncommon to wait half an hour at the most popular stalls. I certainly hate lines as much as the next guy, but as the tour books are quick to point out, the long lines are the key to finding the best food!

Endless options at Maxwell hawker center

Endless options at Maxwell hawker center

Similar to Malaysia, Singapore has a mix of Indian, Chinese, and Malay food. Depending on the neighborhood, hawker centers skew toward either Chinese or Indian food, with a smattering of the community’s take on Malay dishes. This ensures you’ll never exhaust Singapore’s bounty of culinary delights, as dishes by the same name are prepared differently depending on where you get them. Char Kway Teow, an “everything but the kitchen sink” sweet and spicy fried noodle dish ranged in color from tandoori-chicken red to soy sauce brown, and we’re still not sure what Rojak is since, as far as we could tell, it was a curry at one stall, and a salad at another!

photo 4Not missing an opportunity to eat biryani and dosas, we stayed in a hostel in Little India, and did much of our eating at the nearby Tekka hawker center. Tekka’s piece de resistance was Tulang Power, mutton marrow bones in a sweet and spicy dye-your fingers red broth. Eliza slurped up the devilishly rich marrow with a straw while I stuck to the few scraps of flaky meat left on the bone, drenched in the tasty sauce. We mopped up the remaining sauce with Murtabak, Malaysia’s take on the culturally ubiquitous stuffed bread. (By the way, if you’re in Singapore  and looking for Murtabak, our far and away favorite was ZamZam restaurant in Kampung Glam neighborhood, thanks to a tip from our friend Kim.)

ZamZam's perfectly crunchy, flakey, and savory Mutton Murtabak

ZamZam’s perfectly crunchy, flakey, and savory Mutton Murtabak

We also made it to the Maxwell hawker center, one of Chinatown’s more popular hawker centers, and used the opportunity to try one of Singapore’s hallmark dish, Chicken Rice. To the unsuspecting observer it may look like a bland chicken breast with plain steamed rice, but it still astounds me how much flavor and texture is packed into such a colorless dish. The chicken is drenched in a sweet and salty sauce that while simple is too tasty not to love, and the seemingly plain-jane rice is in fact cooked in chicken broth. To top it all off, the real masterpiece of the dish is the velvety-ness of the chicken, by far the most moist and tender chicken breast I have ever had.

DSC_0948

Overall, Singapore definitely lived up to its culinary reputation. Our 3 days there were quite a feast, and like any truly great trip, left us with plenty to come back for. We didn’t get a chance to try the famous chili crab and the mystery of Rojak remains unsolved.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Food Tour in Budapest

I was reminded of our food tour in Budapest when I walked into our hostel room in Singapore and was hit with a waft of moldy, cheesy air. This wasn’t your average pong, it’s the smell of that distinct, fluffy, velvety white rind on a round of Camembert. Delicious, right? Needless to say, this wasn’t my favorite hostel of the whole trip; we’ve had better and we’ve certainly had cheaper. Our hostel in Singapore was not the highlight of the trip.

Great Market Hall, Budapest. A beautiful turn of the century building.

Great Market Hall, Budapest. A beautiful turn of the century building.

However, the food tour in Budapest  with Taste Hungary was one of the best parts of our 3 weeks away from Bali. Our guide Ana was extremely informative and showed us some of the tastiest bites of traditional Hungarian food.

The tour began in the breathtaking art deco Central Market building, and had us sampling a traditional Hungarian apertif called Unicum as well as some ewe’s milk cheese, both very potent and tasty.

A shot of Unicum, an herbal digestif liqueur.

A shot of Unicum, an herbal digestif liqueur.

Sour cherry yogurt and sheep's cheese.

Sour cherry yogurt and sheep’s cheese.

We also sampled hard sausages made from venison and pork, alongside some cracklins. It was all fantastic, but I really loved the butcher’s displays.

Butcher

Pickling is clearly a big thing Hungarian cuisine, typically made with a sweet and vinegary brine.

Zev's Mum is clearly delighted by the displays of pickled beets and peppers.

Zev’s Mum is clearly delighted by the displays of pickled beets and peppers.

More pickles!

More pickles

Next we headed to a local lunch spot, where we stood outside around a long wooden table among a mass of workers on their lunch break. The emphasis of this meal was meat; blood sausage, liver sausage, paprika sausage, duck leg, cabbage, potatoes, horseradish, pickled veggies, and paprika noodles.

Pickled peppers at Belvarosi Disznotoros

Pickled peppers at Belvarosi Disznotoros

DSC_0068 DSC_0070

The Taste Hungary food tour was an excellent introduction to traditional Hungarian cuisine. Some of the foods really reminded me of American food, and Zev’s parents certainly recognized some dishes from their grandparents from Eastern Europe.

It’s all coming together

Lunch today was goat sate and soup at our favorite roadside stand.

Goat sate, goat soup. Yummy!

Goat sate, goat soup. Yummy!

On March 1st we fly out of Denpasar airport in Bali and after a duty-free shopping trip layover in Doha, Qatar, we touch down in Austria for a family vacation in celebration of Zev’s father’s birthday. Happy Birthday Don!

We will freeze our butts off, we will frolic in the snow with family we haven’t seen in a very long while, and we will gore ourselves on cheese and meats; it will be delightful. We are both over-the-moon excited to see familiar faces and enjoy quality time with close family, it has been too long.

Being away from family has been one of the most challenging elements of this trip, we are both very close with our families and there are just some gaps that cannot be bridged by Skype. Although the breakfast video chats with our parents on the weekend are becoming a delightful ritual.

Beyond family time, we are also getting a resupply of a number of staples. Most products and brands are available even in the furthest corner of the world (hello, Nivea products!), but some products are simply not the same quality as what we have at home or outrageously expensive (deodorant, brasseries, and tampons are a few of the most elusive sundries).

We landed in Bali 6 weeks ago with no idea what we would be doing after this family trip to Austria. But slowly things are coming together. We plan to return to Bali and spend a portion of the spring/summer here, learning more about the culture and fantastic food of Indonesia.

Oh yeah, we took a surfing lesson this weekend. I floundered, Zev surfed. Fun was had by all.

Oh yeah, we took a surfing lesson this weekend. I floundered, Zev surfed. Fun was had by all.

And we also stayed at the uber fancy Conrad Bali, thanks to some HiltonHonors points.

And we also stayed at the uber fancy Conrad Bali, thanks to some HiltonHonors points.

And ate seafood on the beach in Jimbaran, Bali.

And ate seafood on the beach in Jimbaran, Bali.

Amazing grilled prawns.

Amazing grilled prawns.

You buy fish by the kilo and they grill it up for you over smoky coconut husks.

This guy was so bored. You buy fish by the kilo and they grill it up for you over burning coconut husks.

Stuff from around the web:

Traveling is just like this. xkcd FTW.

Vanity Fair piece about tyrannical chefs.

NYT scared me off of junk food, at least until I finished the article.

Sky Scanner, an airfare search engine that is so cool.

Cooking Class in Kuala Lumpur

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

We made a quick visa run to Kuala Lumpur in the first week of January. This was our second time in the city, and we quickly fell under its spell again. Based on our memories from our 2010 trip to Malaysia, we remembered a place of cheap and impossibly delicious food, friendly people at every turn, and impressive shopping mega malls. Kuala Lumpur is a shopping destination, and although shopping isn’t our forte, the malls are worth a visit for the food courts alone. On our second visit, the city lived up to our expectations and left us scheming for a third visit.

While we were in town, we made sure to eat copious amounts of spicy, delightfully rich South Indian food. If you’ve been watching on Instagram (@elizaq and @zevowitz), you know we started most days with milky tea and Roti Canai, a breakfast dish of flaky flatbread served with a dish of soupy and spicy, yet delicately sweet curried lentils as a dipping sauce.

We also managed to take an ‘Authentic Malay’ cooking class at LaZat, located in the suburbs of KL and run by Ana Abdullah, a delightfully chatty woman whose personal mission is to spread the art of Malay cuisine to one and all! A rare avid home cook in a bustling modern city, Ana found herself with a constant stream of requests from non-cooking friends to cater events and gatherings. Acutely aware of the perils of opening a restaurant, and genuinely concerned by the loss of traditional recipes and cooking skills she saw among her friends, Ana decided to open an cooking school. She still caters for friends, conditioned only on their children attending her classes to keep traditional Malay cooking alive. Since opening Lazat, Ana has trained and collaborated with countless chefs opening Malaysian restaurants around the globe and diners around the world are eating her family’s recipes.

The most noteworthy element of her class is her insistence on cooking technique and the secret steps that make home-recipes so special. In Ana’s cooking class, it really felt like you were learning how to cook, not just how to make a particular dish. She and her co-instructor Sue are prototypical mother-feeder personalities and the class was a welcome experience for two travelers longing for some home cooking.

The main event of the cooking class was Beef Rendang, a sweet and spicy coconut milk stew traditionally prepared for large ceremonies and events in villages. Like many Southeast Asian stews and curries, Rendang starts with a paste of chilies, garlic, shallots, and other aromatics, which you sauté before adding the meat and liquid. Think Southeast Asian mirepoix or soffrito.

The trick to cooking with Rendang or curry pastes is to cook them until they begin to release oil. Depending on how much you’re making, and the heat of the pan, this can take varying amounts of time. If you don’t cook the paste long enough, you won’t get its full flavor in the dish. Ana explained that you know you’ve done it right when, after you add the meat and water, oil floats to the top of the pot. We all got it right, so I couldn’t tell you what to do if oil doesn’t float to the top though…

Rendang gets reduced twice, once after the addition of water and the second after the addition of coconut milk, and is traditionally served when it has reached a dry, oily paste that is intensely aromatic, sweet, and mildly hot. Mixing it in with steamed rice opens up its tremendously complex bouquet of lemongrass, coconut, garlic, and chilies. The beef is beyond tender and I can only imagine how much better it would have been after a day in the fridge, had we been able to keep ourselves from eating it all.

For dessert, we got to play with a whole bunch of new ingredients and techniques, the end result of which was a rice ball filled with coconut and palm sugar and covered in coconut cream. I’ve never worked with rice-flour before, but have always loved the clean taste and glutinous consistency. Now that I know how easy it is to use, a homemade Mochi is definitely on my recipe to-do list once we have a real kitchen again.

Our instructor, Sue, was as sweet as can be. She took us around the local market and introduced us to all of the local vendors. We were particularly taken by Rose, a real character who ran the local spice shop. She implored us to come back to KL and import a nice American man for Sue to date :).

The atmosphere of the market and the cooking school was so welcoming and friendly that Zev and I began plotting ways to get back to Kuala Lumpur for longer than just a weekend.

Myanmar Cooking Class

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Written a few days ago, when we were without internet:

Happy New Year!

The past few days we have been relaxing at Ngwe Saung Beach in the southwest of Myanmar. Lonely Planet describes Ngwe Saung as having ‘a palpable abandoned aura.’ Although this may be a slight exaggeration, there is so little to do on this strip of sand that one is forced to relax. It has been a breath of fresh air after hectic non-stop travel. We have taken plenty of downtime while traveling, but this is the first opportunity to do so without a smidge of guilt. There are no pagodas that we should be seeing, no one-day-only markets or limited museum hours that we could be missing. Each day begins when the electricity stops and the fan in our room grinds to a halt at 6am. It ends around 9pm when every restaurant in town closes. There is not much nightlife anywhere in Myanmar. I feel confident that when we leave on January 2nd, Zev will have fully mastered the art of relaxing.

Zev’s birthday was on the 29th, which we celebrated by picking crabs drenched in curry powder, gorging on Tiger Prawns and having a spa spree, and of course blowing out a candle atop a slice of chocolate cake.

So maybe we have been doing a few things while relaxing at the beach…. I learned how to drive a geared motorscooter (big thanks to Zev for his bravery as a passenger and instructor), this is a big deal because I have been terrified of driving one ever since I tipped over and nearly squished my sister, the passenger at the time. (Perhaps she can elucidate the unfortunate incident in the comments section, as I recall she has a particularly vivid recollection of what happened.)

We also went snorkeling twice with only once getting scrapped against some sharp rocks.  Marine life spotting has been limited to small fish of different types, a grouper, and an eel! I wouldn’t say that the snorkeling here is great, but the very clear water and thriving coral reefs make it engaging enough for a few hours. And personally, I enjoy seeing the tiny brightly colored coral fish flitting about.

Upon arrival at the beach I embarked on a coconut water binge, vowing to consume at least one coconut a day. So far, so good. I looooove the super cheap coconuts here ($.75) and the vendors will even hack it open when you’ve drunk the water so you can scoop out the translucent flesh. Delish!

Earlier this week in Bagan we took a Burmese cooking class at ‘Flavor of Myanmar.’ Bagan is known for its ancient stupas and temples, but sometimes you can get templed out. The food here has been tasty, lots of mild (and sometimes greasy) curries, and unusual salads including the ubiquitous tea leaf salad which is tart and bitter with pickled fermented tea leaves, fried lentils, sesame seeds, and an assortment of other savory tidbits.

The class began early in the morning with a market visit. Unlike previous cooking classes in which the instructor walks you around and shows various local fruits and veggies while giving the name and purpose, this one had a much more interactive element! We were each given woven bamboo shopping baskets, containing a parasol, a shopping list and 2,000 kyat ($2.40). The grocery list gave phrases in English and Burmese that would come in handy while navigating the marketplace. We learned how to ask the vendors whether or not they had an item, how much it was, and to bargain down the price. With our allotted budget, we each set off to haggle our way around the marketplace acquiring ingredients for the course. It was delightful to interact with the vendors and joke and laugh with all the ladies in the market as they tried to understand our attempts at Burmese.

We returned to the cooking school and received a booklet which had all of the recipes typed out with detailed instruction. After watching a demonstration of the first dish, the ubiquitous ‘Myanmar Chicken Potato Curry,’ we retreated to our individual stations and attempted to duplicate what the instructor had created. It is always funny to see how disparate the final result can be from the demo.

Of all the dishes we made, the Chicken Potato Curry was the most typical and also our personal favorite.

Chicken Potato Curry

Serving: 1

Method of Preparation: Sauté/ simmering in 2inch deep sauté pan

Ingredients:

80g chicken, cubed (ed. dark meat preferred for tenderness and best flavor)

1 medium potato, par boiled until just tender and quartered

1 teaspoon turmeric powder (1/2 tsp for marinade, remainder for cooking)

80g shallots, minced

3-4 cloves garlic, minced

1 tbsp ginger, grated or minced

1 tsp red chili powder, or more depending on level of spiciness

2 tsp fish sauce (1 tsp for marinade, remainder for cooking)

2 heads lemon grass, crushed

½ cup water

handful cilantro leaf chopped roughly, for garnish

salt and pepper, to taste

Marinate the chicken:

Wash the chicken and cut into medium pieces. Mix thoroughly with salt, pepper, turmeric powder, and a bit of fish sauce. Marinate for 10 minutes to 1 hour.

Cooking:

This recipe cooks quickly, so be sure to have all ingredients prepped and at hand.

Heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the turmeric, and just as it begins to turn color, but before it burns (not more than 30 seconds), add the shallots and sauté until golden brown.  Add garlic and ginger together, sauté until fragrant. Add 1 tsp fish sauce. Add red chili powder and stir; almost immediately (count 5 seconds) add chicken, potato, and lemongrass.  Add ½ cup water to avoid sticking and cover tightly.
Cook over medium heat for 5 minutes. Remove lid, reduce heat, and simmer until liquid has evaporated and the chicken is tender, adding more water as necessary.

When the oil separates from the gravy, remove from the heat. Season with salt pepper, and additional fish sauce, to taste. Discard the lemongrass and serve, garnishing with the cilantro leaves.  Serve with rice.

Layin Low in Shanghai

Not the famous Shanghai ‘xiaolongbao’ soup dumplings, but these pork dumplings were super juicy and delicious!

This isthe famous Shanghai soup dumpling or xiaolongbao, from Din Tai Fun Restaurant. This is the hairy crab and pork variety, surprisingly sweet.

Happy (very) belated Thanksgiving!

Zev and I tracked down a Texas BBQ restaurant in Shanghai and scored some majorly authentic smoked turkey and stuffing to celebrate the holiday, it was a good consolation prize for not being with our family.

Saturday night we went to our second Thanksgiving, this one potluck style and the spread was to die for. There was the juiciest turkey known to mankind(cooked for 11 hours), mac n cheese that brought a tear to my eye, mashed broccoli which is henceforth the only civilized way to cook that veggie, and a spinach dip that I continued to snack on until 2am. 😀

Our very generous hosts (thanks Kate and Josh!) put together a knockout dinner and assembled an endlessly fascinating group of mostly-American expats living in Shanghai. Meeting so many wonderful Americans really chased away the homesickness.

Most of our stops thus-far have been full of must-see cultural and historical sights, but Shanghai’s highlights are shopping, nightlife, and dining.There is a huge expat scene and we’re lucky enough to have three good friends living and working here to show us the ropes. Unfortunately, weather has not been on our side the last several days and we’ve spent most of our days doing laundry, regrouping, and becoming semi-pro nappers, then taking to the city in the evening to enjoy good company and nightlife. In addition to our two thanksgiving dinners, we’ve sampled the local club and music scene.

The Bund was beautiful. One evening we had drinks with a friend at the Vue Bar at the Hyatt. So so gorgeous! Check out instagram for more @elizaq

After having slogged through Beijing in the cold and damp, it’s finally time to dry out our soggy feet and recharge. On Wednesday, November 28th we fly south to Kunming in Yunnan province. It is supposed to be a very scenic region, so we’re excited for the warmer temperatures and time outside. Let’s keep our fingers crossed for less smog!

Yu Gardens in Shanghai, the rockeries and quiet spaces inspire contemplation.

Humble Administrator’s Garden in Suzhou, outside of Shanghai. The classical Chinese gardens were incredible, the style seeks to recreate natural landscapes on a miniature scale.