Someone asked me recent how moving to Manhattan has been. The city is enormous, overwhelming, cold in all senses of the word, and intimidating. But I grew up in the South, where they always tell you ‘if you don’t have anything nice to say, don’t say anything at all.’ So the adjustment has been (smile). I think this politeness rule goes doubly true for the blog. So I’ve been a bit quiet recently. However, springtime has me coming out of my shell and
loving trying to love my new home.
These articles really struck a cord with me. What to do if you’re falling out of love with New York. And most saliently, New York Doesn’t Love You.
Whenever I need some comfort food, I make braised leeks with vinaigrette. They are simple, hearty, and a cheerful shade of green. Transforming the humble, sandy leek into an elegant dish is the most satisfying act of alchemy of which I am capable.
Zev noticed my unusual obsession with leeks. I didn’t grow up eating them, but I have learned to love their versatility. Cheap, plentiful in the winter, and seemingly insubstantial, they are easily transformed into an impressive side dish by simmering them gently in stock for 10 to 15 minutes and smothering them in a tangy mustard vinaigrette. A perfect vinaigrette is all about the ratio of 3-1-1 (6 tablespoons olive oil, 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar). I borrowed this recipe from Nora Ephron’s impossibly witty novel Heartburn.
Learning how to prep leeks was a culinary revelation. It felt like unlocking a little secret. Trim off 1/4 inch of the short white root fibers and generously lop off the tough fibrous green end to where the stalk isn’t tough and fiberous. Preserve a delicate stalk segment ranging in color from white to pale spring green. This is the tenderest portion of the leek plant and the most delicious. Slice the leek lengthwise down the middle and rinse out the sand between the layers. Lay the leek halves cut side down in a medium saute pan, add enough stock to cover, and simmer for 15 minutes until tender.
Serve warm or cool with vinaigrette. Imagine you’re sitting at a rustic patio table in the South of France opposite Julia Child and Stanley Tucci. Warm weather is on the way!